Brick is the masonry material of choice for elegant entry planters. It also complements a brick-paver landing. For a foundation for the planter, pour a slab that is separated from adjacent structures, such as a landing or house foundation, by isolation joints. With larger planter projects, a frost footing often is required; check your local building code.
How to Build a Brick Planter
Excavate the building site, install forms and isolation boards, and pour a concrete base for the project. Let the foundation cure for three days before building on it. Remove forms, and then trim isolation boards so they are level with the tops of adjoining structures, like the landing shown above.
Tip: Cover adjoining surfaces for protection.
Test-fit the first course of the project, and then outline the project on the concrete surface. Dampen the surface slightly then mix mortar and throw a mortar bed in one corner. Begin laying bricks for the project, buttering the exposed end of each brick before setting it.
Lay one section of the first course, checking the bricks frequently with a level to make sure the tops are level and even. Lay two corner return bricks perpendicular to the end bricks in the first section and use a level to make sure they are even across the tops.
Install weep holes for drainage in the first course of bricks on the sides farthest away from permanent structures. Cut 3⁄8″-dia. copper or PVC tubing about 1⁄4″ longer than the width of one brick and set the pieces into the mortar joints between bricks, pressing them into the mortar bed so they touch the footing. Make sure mortar doesn’t block the openings.
Finish building all sides of the first course. Lay the second course of bricks, reversing the directions of the corner bricks to create staggered vertical joints if using a running-bond pattern. Fill in brick courses to full height, building up one course at a time. Check frequently to make sure the tops of the bricks are level and sides are plumb.
Install cap bricks to keep water from entering the cores of the brick and to enhance the visual effect. Set the cap bricks into a 3⁄8″-thick mortar bed, buttering one end of each cap brick. Let the mortar cure for one week. Before adding soil, pour a 4 to 6″-thick layer of gravel into the bottom of the planter for drainage, and then line the bottom and sides of the planter with landscape fabric to prevent dirt from running into and clogging the drainage tubes.